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Discover Mid-America — September 2004

Following the Lewis & Clark trail north

Interior of the reconstructed Fort Mandan, located northwest of Bismark, ND. (photo by Ken Weyand)

My earlier articles about the Lewis & Clark Expedition focused mainly on their exploration of the lower Missouri River, from St. Charles, MO to the Kaw River confluence in Kansas City. But the Expedition faced new challenges in July 1804 as it turned north toward its eventual winter camp near the Mandan Indian villages located near present day Bismarck, ND.

In late July, I decided to retrace the beginning of the explorers’ northern route. I packed a cooler, sleeping bag and tent, and left Kansas City, heading northwest. The plan was to travel on two-lane highways and country roads, keeping as close to the river as possible.

The bottomland along the river was green with soybeans and corn, only separated by dusty gravel roads and narrow ribbons of asphalt. While other travelers sped by on the interstates, these roads near the river would be my route. During the four-day trip, I visited historic sites that relate to the Expedition, along with Indian villages and heritage centers.

White Cloud, KS was part of my path of discovery. There a new interpretive center marked an Expedition campsite. Then it was into Nebraska and on to Brownville and Nebraska City, where Captain Clark had noted the “parched prairies” burned by local tribes to improve grazing. The 1804 Expedition spent July and August pushing upstream, camping on both sides of the river in what would now be northeastern Kansas, northwestern Missouri, eastern Nebraska and western Iowa.

Near present-day Sioux City, IA, the 1804 Expedition suffered its only casualty. Sgt. Charles Floyd probably died from a ruptured appendix. The men buried the sergeant on a high bluff. The river would later threaten Floyd’s grave and his remains would be reburied.

The Expedition’s youngest member, Pvt. George Shannon, nearly became the group’s second casualty. While searching for stray horses in northeast Nebraska, Shannon became lost. Thinking the men from the Expedition had gone upstream, the 19-year-old trudged north for two weeks — subsisting on berries and nearly starving — before the Expedition caught up with him.

From late August until late October, the Expedition traveled through present day South and North Dakota, arriving at the Mandan villages and finally settling on a winter campsite in early November. During their travels, they would hold councils with several tribes and helped forge a peace between the Mandans, Hidatsus and Arikaras.

Sculptures depicting Lewis & Clark's council with Otoes at Fort Calhoun, NE. (photo by Ken Weyand)

Still in Nebraska, I drove through Belleview and Omaha on Hwy. 75 and stopped at Fort Calhoun, the first U.S. military post west of the Missouri River. It was there the Expedition met with Otoe and Missouri chiefs. Interpretive displays and sculptures mark the site near a reconstructed Fort Atkinson, built in 1820.

Ponca State Par sits just off Hwy. 12 about 20 miles west of Sioux City. A new interpretive center introduces visitors to the Missouri National Recreational River, a 59-mile segment that remains relatively unchanged since the days of Lewis and Clark. Two scenic overlooks offer great views of the river.

After crossing the river and tent-camping overnight on Lewis and Clark Lake at Yankton, SD, I headed for Chamberlain, SD. The river came into view between rolling hills, with fields of soybeans and corn giving way to larger expanses of wheat and alfalfa.

In Chamberlain, I visited the Atka Lakota Museum with its Native American art and interpretive displays. Choosing a route close to the east bank of the Missouri, I drove to Pierre, South Dakota’s capital city, where I divided my time between the Cultural Heritage Center, with its excellent displays of area history, and the Lewis & Clark Site at Fort Pierre, where the Expedition met with the Teton Lakotas. The 1804 council nearly ended in disaster when one of the chiefs took offense at the number of gifts offered and was restrained by another chief — an intervention that prevented a violent encounter.

Crossing the river at Mobridge on Hwy. 1804, I entered North Dakota on the river’s west side and headed for Fort Abraham Lincoln State Park near Mandan. There, I’d planned to camp.

The sky was darkening with ominous-looking thunderheads building to the north. Driving up Hwy. 1806, I could see the terrain changing, with abrupt hills giving the area a western look. The sky then turned a deep purple and rain began pelting down in earnest. Arriving at the park in a heavy rainstorm, I opted for a cabin near the river instead.

The next day was cloudy but relatively dry. I explored the On-A-Slant Mandan Indian Village, part of the original Mandan settlement that was decimated by smallpox shortly before the Expedition’s arrival. Restored mud huts and an interpretive center bring the village to life for visitors. Nearby is the Cavalry Post commanded by Lt. Col. George Custer before he left for his ill-fated battle at the Little Bighorn. Custer’s residence is rebuilt and beautifully furnished, including authentic Custer family items. I also visited the 1872 Infantry Post with its restored blockhouses on a high bluff overlooking the river.

About 40 minutes north of Bismarck, I came to the North Dakota Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center and the reconstructed 1804-05 winter post, Fort Mandan. It was near here that the Expedition spent the winter, met the Hidatsu woman Sakakawea and helped the Mandans, Hidatsus and Arikaras make peace. The Center houses dioramas, interactive exhibits, maps and art, including paintings by Karl Bodmer, the noted artist who visited the area in 1833-34. Guides at the reconstructed fort show visitors the sleeping quarters, blacksmith shop and storage areas for trade goods.

Later, I explored the Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site a few miles to the west. It contains vestiges of the Hidatsa settlements visited by Lewis and Clark. Numerous depressions show the location of the earth lodges, built in honeycomb-like groups on a plain overlooking the river. That afternoon, I began my return trip home.

Two sites remained. Near Vermillion, SD, I visited the Spirit Mound, a conical hill believed by many Indian tribes to be the home of devils. The spirits were said to have “large heads, and about 18 inches high,” according to Clark, and were “arm’d with sharp arrows with which they can kill at a great distance.”

He added that the various tribes refused to approach the hill. The Captains, along with a small group, braved the heat on Aug. 25, 1804, and climbed the hill, which offered a view of several herds of buffalo in all directions.

The last stop was in Sioux City, IA, and the grave of Sgt. Charles Floyd, the only member of the Expedition to die in route. Before visiting the Floyd Memorial, I stopped at the Sergeant Floyd River Museum & Welcome Center, housed in a dry-docked riverboat of the same name. The center contains a fascinating collection of riverboat memorabilia, including steamboat models, old photos, maps, paintings and perhaps the most interesting item of all: a forensic reconstruction of Sergeant Floyd himself in his Corps of Discovery uniform. A nearby Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center contains interactive exhibits, maps, and other Expedition memorabilia.

The four-day, 1,874-mile trip allowed me to sample important historical sites, but more than25 Expedition campsites and historic sites are available — from Kansas City to Fort Mandan. I suggest allowing at least a full week for your expedition and visit www.lewisandclarktrail.com before beginning your travels.

Discover Mid-America founder and Senior Contributing Editor Ken Weyand files regular reports on notable Midwest destinations. He can be reached at kweyand@gbronline.com or publisher@discoverypub.com.

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